Klinec in Medana Brda -- CERTIFIED BIODYNAMIC!
Ok, so we're not technically in Italy -- but it's only a few miles over the Friuli border, and the wines are outstanding. Klinec is in the wine region of Brda, or "hills," itself in the larger wine region of Primorje. Brda is a continuation of Friuli’s Collio (a little bit steeper hills here though), and located just a few kilometers northwest of Gorizia (home to Radikon and Gravner). Those of the area hail Klinec as one of the best small producers (only 1666 cases); his next door neighbor is the larger (and excellent too) Movia.
Aleks made the decision long ago to produce organic and biodynamic wines. But, instead of talking to me about burying bull horns and cow dung, Aleks spoke thoughtfully about using ingredients such as algae, to help ward off problems in the vineyard. It's refreshing to hear about the practical side of the vineyard management and cellar work involved in the making of biodynamic wines instead of just philosophical musings.
All the wines have maceration on the skins, resulting in rich, complex, and age-worthy whites that seem more red in substance. If you're a fan of Gravner and Radikon in Friuli, give these a try.
Something else to note is the variety of wood used for aging containers, including acacia and mulberry barrels. These add a light touch, quite different from the feel and nose one gets from aging in oak (more of a delicate nutty spiciness instead of clove and vanilla).
These are exceedingly complex and enjoyable food wines, whose rich and warm texture also cleans the palate. For drinking now; and lay a few in the cellar.
