"One of the more interesting and promising wineries in Gavi" Gambero RossoLaghibellina in Monterotondo -- PRACTICING ORGANIC
Monterotondo is in the Gavi DOCG -- just past the Liguria border in Piemonte. To get there you can zoom the highway, in and out of the tunnels through the Apennines, in a great feat of Italian engineering. Or, more leisurely, take the back roads that wind up and over the Apennines to the calcareous hills of Monterotondo.
Alberto and Marina, husband and wife team, talked about how important it was to understand the texture of Gavi; how it is in bocca, or literally "in the mouth." Marina explained that too many producers are trying to extract fruity flavors on the nose from the non-aromatic Cortese grape (the grape of Gavi di Gavi). She insisted "it's in the mouth where the dynamic part of the Cortese grape is found; where is really creates an interesting texture." If you've ever been tempted to rattle off lots of nose descriptors without a word about how the wines felt in the mouth, this Gavi won't play your game.
La Ghibellina offers two Gavi whites:
The Gavi Mainin is bracing, very dry, with a bit of structure (from the lees); think lemon and a touch of creme fraiche. It pairs well with most simple seafood dishes. The Gavi Altius is more complicated (more stirring of the lees; choice grapes) and has more weight to it; more of that creme fraiche creaminess and cured Meyer lemons; it also ages well.
We tasted through some of the wines from the last three years of the Altius and they exhibit lots of mineral notes flickering around tertiary qualities of honey and wax: a very special and serious Gavi. Even our Muscade-Only friends are half convinced.
There's also a tasty and light Monferrato Chiaretto (mostly red Babera grapes, vinified as a white wine, resulting in a lighter color than a rosato); worth a try for those looking to convince friends who only drink white wines.
Finally, for all of you who thought Gavi was only land of crisp whites, try the Barbera of Laghibellina Monferrato Rosso: it’s luxurious, rich with warm raspberry and black cherry. There's some new oak here but nothing too glossy. It's a sexy wine that still that fun-loving and refreshing Barbera at heart.
Distribution: USA.
