Sicilia

Maybe Goethe called Sicily "the key to Italy" to explain a land filled with more contradictions and differnt cultures than all the rest of Italy combined. Known as Magna Grecia in classical times, the region still has ancient Greek temples in the ever-present sun that arches from Greece. And there's lots of wine under that sun.

But, Sicily is changing its tune from quantity to quality. Plenty of crispy and charming whites from native grapes are just the thing for cooling off in the summer; they also don't break the bank. The red Nero D'Avola is often fruity and spicy (incense and clove), and low in tannins. It can be a sexy little wine.

Then, amid all this sun and bucolic hills, there the active volcano of Mt. Etna, whose slopes at more than 4000 feet have the etched red fruit of Nerello Mascallese; a fascinating, complex wine, filled with freshness, minerals and a certain volcanic soil stamp.

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